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How To - Cutwork - Fundamentals

How To - Cutwork - Fundamentals



ANITA GOODESIGN | Anita’s Tutorials

Cutwork Fundamentals

Master the art of cutwork embroidery — one window at a time




SKILL LEVEL

Beginner Friendly

HOOPINGS

Single Hooping

TECHNIQUE

Cutwork




Cutwork embroidery is a technique where certain areas of your project’s base fabric are removed, or cut out, to create a striking negative-space effect. Cutwork designs include a special marking stitch, so you always know exactly which areas need to be trimmed.


The key is leaving your Wash-Away stabilizer intact beneath the fabric you trim, giving the open windows a surface to stabilize against until the design is finished. A quick rinse in hot water then dissolves the remaining stabilizer, leaving a stunning series of “windows” peeking through your fabric — a wonderful, low-density way to add detail to clothing and linens alike.




MATERIALS LIST

◆ Wash-Away stabilizer

◆ Base fabric

◆ Appliqué fabric

◆ Embroidery threads

◆ Coordinating bobbin thread

◆ Curved-tip embroidery scissors

◆ Ruler

◆ Rotary cutter and mat

◆ Embroidery hoop

◆ 75/11 embroidery needle




Step

1

Hoop the Stabilizer

Begin by hooping a piece of Wash-Away stabilizer together with your base fabric, pulling both layers drum-tight so there is no slack. The stabilizer sits underneath and supports the open areas you’ll cut later. (In this example, the base fabric is blue cotton.)

Title: Hoop the Stabilizer - Description: Hoop the Stabilizer




Step

2

Run the Marking Stitch

Run the first machine step. This is the special marking stitch, and it stitches an outline that shows you exactly where the cutwork openings of the design will be — think of it as a map for the trimming you’re about to do.

Title: Run the Marking Stitch - Description: Run the Marking Stitch




Step

3

Slice Into the Base Fabric

Using a seam ripper or curved-tip embroidery scissors, gently slice into the base fabric inside the marked area. Cut through the top fabric only, taking care not to nick or puncture the Wash-Away stabilizer underneath, since it needs to stay intact to support the window.

Title: Slice Into the Base Fabric - Description: Slice Into the Base Fabric




Step

4

Cut Out the Fabric

Once you have an opening, use your scissors to carefully cut away all of the base fabric that sits inside the marking stitches. Trim close to the stitched line for clean edges, again leaving the stabilizer below untouched.

Title: Cut Out the Fabric - Description: Cut Out the Fabric




Step

5

Check Your Window

Once trimmed, your cutwork window should look like this. Notice that the Wash-Away stabilizer is still fully intact inside the opening — that intact layer is what holds the window stable while the rest of the design stitches out.

Title: Check Your Window - Description: Check Your Window




Step

6

Stitch the Cutwork Edges

Run the next machine step. This is the specially digitized stitching that wraps and secures the raw fabric edges around each window, finishing them neatly and creating the signature cutwork look.

Title: Stitch the Cutwork Edges - Description: Stitch the Cutwork Edges




Step

7

Run the Appliqué Placement Stitch

Continue to the next machine step, which stitches a placement outline for your first standard appliqué. This light outline shows you exactly where to lay your appliqué fabric in the following step.

Title: Run the Appliqué Placement Stitch - Description: Run the Appliqué Placement Stitch




Step

8

Place the Appliqué Fabric

Place your appliqué fabric right side up over the placement outline, making sure it extends past the stitched line on all sides so the entire outline is covered. Smooth it flat before moving on.

Title: Place the Appliqué Fabric - Description: Place the Appliqué Fabric




Step

9

Tack Down the Appliqué

Run the next machine step — a tacking stitch that holds the appliqué fabric firmly in place against the design. This locks the fabric down so it won’t shift when you trim it.

Title: Tack Down the Appliqué - Description: Tack Down the Appliqué




Step

10

Trim the Appliqué

Now carefully trim away the excess appliqué fabric, cutting close to the tacking stitches without clipping them. Once trimmed, the design will look like this, with the appliqué shape neatly revealed.

Title: Trim the Appliqué - Description: Trim the Appliqué




Step

11

Stitch the Decorative Details

Continue on to run the decorative embroidery steps. Follow your design’s numbered machine steps in order, changing thread colors whenever the design calls for it, to build up the finished detail.

Title: Stitch the Decorative Details - Description: Stitch the Decorative Details




Step

12

Finish All Machine Steps

When every machine step is complete, your design should look something like this — the cutwork windows, appliqué, and decorative stitching all finished together inside the hoop.

Title: Finish All Machine Steps - Description: Finish All Machine Steps




Step

13

Trim to Size

With the stitching finished, remove the project from the hoop. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, trim the piece down to your desired finished dimensions, keeping your cuts straight and even.

Title: Trim to Size - Description: Trim to Size




Step

14

Rinse Away the Stabilizer

Rinse the finished design in hot water to dissolve any remaining Wash-Away stabilizer. As it washes away, the open cutwork windows are revealed. Press gently with a dry towel and lay the piece flat to dry.

Title: Rinse Away the Stabilizer - Description: Rinse Away the Stabilizer




Step

15

Your Cutwork Is Complete

You’ve now created a beautiful cutwork design! The crisp open windows and layered appliqué are ready to show off on a garment, pillow, or linen of your choice.

Title: Your Cutwork Is Complete - Description: Your Cutwork Is Complete





💡 PRO TIP

The secret to clean cutwork is to leave your Wash-Away stabilizer completely intact beneath the areas you trim. Always cut the base fabric only, never the stabilizer below — it supports the open windows while you stitch, then rinses away at the end to reveal crisp, professional edges.




Your Cutwork Design Is Complete!

Rinse, press, and admire the windows you’ve created — then add elegant cutwork detail to garments and linens alike.



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Cutwork Fundamentals | Anita’s Tutorials | Anita Goodesign

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